Soma Swimsuit and Issues with Elastic

A bit messy, but finished!

A bit messy, but finished!

 
A swimsuit is another item that I never thought I would ever sew, but again as cute versions of the Bombshell swimsuit and the Soma swimsuit were popping up on the internets I figured why not give it a try. I decided to make the Soma Swimsuit by Papercut Patterns as I figured it was more me than the Bombshell. I bought some cute fabric at The Fabric Store and bought the rest of my supplies on-line.

I cut out the size xxs and figured the top my end up too big, but I was treating this first version as test garment so wasn’t too worried about it. I started with the bottoms and my only issue was trying to figure out what constituted a long narrow zig zag

 and how much to pull the elastic to get “slight tension.” One side of my bottoms is bunchier than the other, but I just wasn’t sure how hard to pull. I tried on the bottoms after finishing them and there are definitely some issues with the fit. The elastic is definitely too loose around the front leg and around the back of the bum. The elastic also flips over exposing the bottom side of the seam when I move….I am not sure how to fix the fit, I would assume that I need to pull the elastic tighter, but the bunchier side of the bottoms seem to fit worse than the smoother side?

gathering on one side

gathering/puckering on one side

gathered on one side and smooth on the other, but neither seems to fit

gathered on one side and smooth on the other, but neither seems to fit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Too loose at the front of leg too....

Too loose at the front of leg too….

I figured I would move on to the top and figure out the bottoms later. I decided to make variation 1. I had issues with sewing the Foldover elastic. First I had trouble sewing the elastic to the fabric evenly as the elastic and fabric did not want to stay in place, and second my machine did not want to start sewing the beginning of the elastic pieces and was just zigzagging the same spot over and over again…once I did get it to go, the zigzags weren’t coming out long enough as if my machine wasn’t pulling enough of the fabric through. I had the same issue attaching the bra strapping elastic, my machine did not want to sew it. This is the first time my dear Juki has had an issue sewing something. I’m wondering if I just need to adjust the tension or the pressure of the presser foot? Thoughts anyone? Well I struggled through the top and it certainly isn’t perfect, but I wasn’t too worried about neatness because I really just wanted to see how the pattern fit me. The bottom front elastic is too loose and the fabric seems to bunch where the front pieces crisscross. Also the back sides make sort of caves when the suit is on.

Weird bubbling in the back that looks like little caves/tunnels

Weird bubbling in the back that looks like little caves/tunnels

loose elastic at the front, plus bunching of the two crossed layers

loose elastic at the front, plus bunching of the two crossed layers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So all in all I am not sure how to fix it for the next time. I think most of my issues are elastic tension, but I really have no idea how to tell how much tension there should be. I’m thinking maybe my best bet here is to try to take private lesson with someone who knows what they are doing?

Not a terrible fit (I refuse to show my backside :P)

Not a terrible fit (I refuse to show my backside :P)

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